"STOCKIST'S VOICE" introduces stores that carry DCWHITE.
For the first part, we received cooperation from Freeport, a famous store in Ueno.
In this second installment, we would like to present an interview with Mr. Naganuma, the former owner of Freeport and the current owner of Hamamatsu CITRON.
Also, since this interview was held on September 5th at "Freeport Night" held at "coffee and hot dog shop Bock Okachimachi", Mr. Fujishima, the owner of Freeport, was also present.
[Store details]
CITRON
Business hours 12:00~18:00
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays
Address : Nagura Apartment A 10B, 4-11-1 Sanarudai, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture 432-8021
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Chief: Mr. Naganuma
Fuji: Mr. Fujishima
S: Stay or Go staff
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Mr. Naganuma
S : First, please tell us about CITRON's concept.
Cho : It feels like we brought what we had accumulated in Freeport to Hamamatsu, so there are a lot of Ametora items based on it.
We operate as a shop where you can basically buy the same things every time you come, such as button-down shirts and navy blue shirts, so even if the seasons change and the materials and specifications change, the basics are the same. There are many items.
S : On the other hand, how do you express your attempts to be different from last year and your adaptation to trends?
Cho : I'm getting older with the passage of time, so for example, my skin has become more sensitive, so I choose linen items instead of synthetic ones.
We are now proposing products that are more in line with your lifestyle.
Fuji : One thing I thought about when I was listening is that earlier Mr. Naganuma said, ``We brought what we were doing at Freeport to CITRON,'' but I thought that was a little different.
Mr. Naganuma originally came here with the intention of owning his own shop.
So, rather than just carrying over what I was doing with Freeport, I think it's more like I'm re-expressing what I wanted to do from my experience at Freeport with CITRON.
Many famous Japanese American brands such as Barnstormer, Workers, FOB Factory, etc. are lined up.
S : It means that you are using your experience at Freeport as your core, but you are also expressing yourself beyond that framework at the new store.
Next is a question about Mr. Naganuma himself. What first made you fall in love with clothes?
Cho : I was born and raised in Kugenuma, Kanagawa, and there were a lot of really fashionable people there. Since elementary school, all my friends have been fashionable.
Best of all, all the adults who lived there were really cool. It's close to the central area of Shonan, and there are surf spots nearby. Some of the biggest names in the industry live here.
I often saw people like that, and as a result of that influence, I had an interest in clothes from an early age.
The first piece of clothing I bought with my pocket money when I was in fourth grade was a black VANS hoodie.
The store is lined with items that are based on American traditional fashion, but that are uniquely selected by Mr. Naganuma.
S : When I was in elementary school! It's really fast.
The VANS black hoodie certainly falls within the American casual category, but I think it's in a slightly different genre from Mr. Naganuma's current style.
Is there an event that formed the roots of your current style?
Cho : Well, it's the same with the Vans items I mentioned earlier, but I've always liked American items that smell like butter.
When I was in college, I started working at a vintage shop that sold a lot of American-made items, and one of my seniors there really liked traditional fashion, like Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren.
It may have a big influence on that person.
S : Thank you. I've loved clothes ever since I was in elementary school... Could you tell us about any points you found that are important when choosing clothes?
Cho : As for things, I generally like clothes that are made with the wearer in mind. Maybe it's because I used to work at a vintage shop, but I like items that have military details and functional details designed for ``life''.
S : It has a different meaning than the original purpose, but I find the details that transform when seen from a fashion perspective fascinating.
Next, I would like to ask about CITRON.
Mr. Naganuma used to be the owner of Freeport, but now he has opened CITRON in Hamamatsu.
Did you originally have a desire to open a shop in Hamamatsu?
Cho : The timing just happened to coincide. It was close to my wife's parents' house, I had a child, and Fujishima in Freeport was now able to manage on my own.
Also, I wanted to contribute to the local community.
When it comes to ``connecting things and people,'' clothes are all about the production background.
Hamamatsu is an area called Enshu, and it has a huge textile industry. The quality of the fabrics made using fine threads is among the highest in the world . I think it would be more persuasive if we could use those kinds of products while also producing locally for local consumption in our hometown of Hamamatsu.
In fact, we also sell shirts and bags made using Enshu textiles . *Currently sold out, efforts will continue in the future.
A tote made with local Enshu linen. It's as durable as cotton canvas, but it's also lightweight.
S : Since moving to Hamamatsu, I would like to ask if you have had any fun or challenges that are different from Tokyo.
Cho : I feel like there are a lot of people in Hamamatsu who want something that fits their lifestyle. On the other hand, I think there are many people in Tokyo who buy clothes to dress up.
So now I feel the differences between the two cities in terms of comfort and appearance.
There's nothing particularly different about the management, but I find it interesting in the factory that handles locally produced products and the interaction with new people I meet.
Also, since it's located close to Shonan, you'll need something that dries quickly or sweatshirts. Also, many people have tanned skin, so clothes that have a color that stands out against their skin are more likely to be appreciated.
Also, Hamamatsu is home to many car factories such as Yamaha and Suzuki, so I like clothes that don't make me feel uncomfortable when riding in a car.
It's interesting how the lifestyle in Tokyo is completely different.
S : Thank you.
In such a situation, DCWHITE continues to be chosen by customers even though they changed their location from Freeport to CITRON. Please tell us about the appeal of this brand.
Cho : It's really important that the creator (DCWIHTE director Kyō Ishihara) is visible. It's like the attitude of people who know something and make it confidently .
I think that kind of creation would be difficult to come up with without a proper understanding of the lifestyle of the time (1950s America, when the ivy style was popular), and I really want to create clothes like that. There are many items that allow you to understand this concept.
DCWHITE "Training Top"
For example, I think that the track jacket was completed by focusing on what Mr. Ishihara wanted to do, rather than focusing on the fact that it would sell like crazy.
In addition, I rely on them when I make custom suits, and they have knowledge of tailoring and manufacturing, so I trust them a lot.
S : Thank you. I'll let them know!
Next up is a slightly broader question about the trad industry as a whole.
Nowadays, with the development of SNS and e-commerce, we can easily access clothes of all kinds.
Under such circumstances, what points should we focus on in order for tradwear culture itself to continue to be an attractive option for users?
Long : First of all, the basic premise is that trad and ivy are not so interchangeable, or rather they have an old-fashioned charm . It's important to continue creating those parts without adding a strange sense of fashion to them. Of course, while keeping up with trends.
Also, when trad and ivy came to Japan, I think people looked at actors in movies and advertisements more visually than they do now. I think people today don't have many opportunities to come into contact with such things.
So, on the contrary, I want people to look at it visually, like Steve McQueen. I think it is necessary to explain this while also including such points.
It goes without saying that something is good, but it's important to consider the added value, whether it's something you're really happy to have, or whether it's worth it. It is also important to decide where to apply these values.
S : I do feel that the charm of traditional fashion and ivy is its unchanging nature. In the age of social media, it is important to disseminate information that is in line with trends, but it seems easier to reach new generations by combining visual dissemination with emphasis on the context of unchanging appeal.
Fuji : What do “clothes” mean to you, Naganuma?
Long : What do you mean by clothes? (lol)
Fuji : For me, clothes are a "communication tool" .
Clothes indicate a person's identity, so if you look at a person while knowing their clothes, you can see the person.
S : That's a very Fujishima-like way of looking at it.
Cho : For me, it's my "food for living."
I want that, so let's save money. I always have clothes as my goal. It's already become my livelihood.
I still want to buy clothes. (lol)
S : For people who love clothes, it's hard to let go of their passion for clothes. (lol)
I learned a lot from listening to the stories of the owners of two shops that advocate American traditional food! thank you very much.
[Store details]
CITRON
Business hours 12:00~18:00
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays
Address : Nagura Apartment A 10B, 4-11-1 Sanarudai, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture 432-8021