Each season, we focus on one item, from the materials, stitching, and specifications to the historical background. DCWHITE's high-end line "Ultimate Collection" presents wear that is particular about all of these aspects.

In the '24 Spring/Summer collection, we announced the " Balmachan Coat ". As the name suggests, we have delved into the Balmachan coat, which has its roots in England, and reconsidered all its elements. The items have been rebuilt with a touch of DCWHITE style.

From the '24SS lookbook

history

It is well known that Balmacarn Court is derived from the name of Balmacarn in the Scottish Highlands.

The Highlands region has many mountainous areas rich in nature, and livestock farming, mainly highland cattle, is traditional.

However, it is true that there are many unknowns about its origins; some say that it has its roots in coats worn while hunting in the naturally rich Highlands region, while others say that it has its roots in trench coats, which were military wear. Various theories have been proposed, including the theory that

Military coat production factory

After that, although the materials, accessories, and fine details changed, the simple and complete form spread all over the world.

In America, this coat and its silhouette are so universal that it is simply called a "coat" or "top coat."

In Japan, there was a book called ` `Tokyo Annual Events Vol. 2'' published in 1911 that summarized the social aspects of the once daily newspaper Yorozu Choho. There is a description of it as a "stainless collar coat", which proves that Balmachan coats have existed in this country for over 100 years .

*The stainless steel collar coat is a Japanese-made English version of the Balmachan coat.

specification

As mentioned above, the Balmakaan coat has blended into various regions and cultures, but there are a few conditions for it to be called that: 1) Wide collar width at the center of the back, 2 ) Raglan sleeves, and 3) Hiyo style .

For the "Balmachan Coat", while keeping these basic conditions in check, we also kept the other elements to a simple and noble specification.

The silhouette is an A-line with a wide hem. The tails flutter in the wind, creating a wide drape.

Regarding the sleeve specifications, in the second-hand market, single-sleeve coats such as Burberry coats are rarer and more expensive, but this item is intentionally designed with two sleeves.

By increasing the number of parts to two, you can control the pattern to create a more structured and three-dimensional sleeve shape by creating more room around the shoulders and a slight taper toward the ends of the sleeves.

Normally, when sewing coats, 9 stitches of thick 20 thread are threaded in 3cm intervals to ensure durability at low cost, but for "Balmachan Coat" , the intention is to use a slightly thinner 30 thread with 12 threads threaded in 3cm intervals. By threading the needle through , the seams are finished with a more delicate look while maintaining durability.

The lining is a cotton cloth with a Madras pattern, and an engraved buffalo button is included. All of these are original items made specifically for this coat.

In addition, the material used is yarn-dyed No. 70 twin yarn gabardine cloth. Combined with the fact that it has been dyed using thren dye, it is water repellent, windproof, and has the ability to resist oxidation due to sweat and rain and not cause discoloration.

In fact, this material was made in a Japanese cotton textile factory founded in 1893.

During the Meiji era, the Meiji government, concerned about the large volume of cheap imported cotton yarn, established government-run factories one after another in order to further promote the spinning industry.

Eiichi Shibusawa, who supported the development of Japan's textile industry/Image provided by Fukaya City

Later, the stimulus created by the Osaka Spinning Company (currently Toyobo), advocated by Eiichi Shibusawa and others, supported this trend, and Japan's spinning industry developed to the point where it became known as the Manchester of the East .

We decided to use this material for the "Balmachan Coat" out of respect for the spinning industry and its technical capabilities that boosted Japan's economic development.

Gabardine cloth, supplied by a textile company with such a historical background, has a charm that goes beyond the superficial.

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Although the price is not cheap due to the careful manufacturing method, the quality is worthy of the name Ultimate Collection, which means that you can use it for a long time and pass it on to your loved ones.

Please try this opportunity.