Harbor

Just 1 item a season.

For the ninth Ultimate Collection, worked through to the bottom as always, D.C.WHITE turned to the navy blazer, the piece at the center of Ivy style and one we have faced for years.

How far can the most authentic piece of all be carried forward through a contemporary eye? This jacket came out of that question.

What stands out is the weight.

Where an ordinary tailored jacket runs about 700 g to 1000 g, "Harbor" is about 300 g. Roughly the weight of a mid-weight cotton long-sleeve T-shirt.

Unlined, single-layer construction with no interlinings or secondary materials, a design that keeps stitching off the face, bag seams throughout: every part of it works toward taking weight out.

The cloth is a high-twist tropical wool from Canonico of Italy.

It holds a refined sheen while lifting off the skin, which makes it comfortable even in the humid heat of Japan.

To build a soft tropical wool into shape without secondary materials, the pattern needed inventions of its own.

Where that technique shows most is the lapel line, cut in a gentle S.

Running out from the curved point, the lapel forms a roll under its own weight.

The technique is one you see in womenswear; taking it up deliberately was a way of answering the first duty of a tailored jacket, which is to build shape.

Placing the sleeve seam on the inside of the arm gives a natural forward pitch. Shape follows the body without a single secondary material.

That said, it is not a tight fit that clings.

Enough room is left for the arm to slide straight through, so it can be worn in high summer without strain.

Lightness, shape and space, all at once.

A slightly inside note: this online store normally also carries flat-lay shots on a white ground.

For "Harbor", though, because shape is built out of pattern and seamwork alone with no secondary materials, laying it flat produces creases it was never meant to have, and it does not look right.

This jacket is finished only when a body is inside it, so we decided to show it on a mannequin and worn, and nothing else.

Respect the structure of the traditional navy blazer, and clear away in one move the fixed ideas that settled on it along with its weight.

Ivy style, still evolving. "Harbor" is what that idea, the one D.C.WHITE works toward, looks like.

178 cm / 76 kg, wearing size 48

177 cm / 64 kg, wearing size 48

182 cm / 78 kg, wearing size 48

Material: 100% wool

Made in Japan